Dear FFA Members, Parents, EC Youth Supporter and community,             

      Welcome to the new school year. I am looking forward to a successful year of many opportunities and new experiences. Enclosed is a calendar of the year’s events for your records.

     FFA members must return the attached field trip/emergency information forms and the EC FFA Handbook acknowledgment form to be kept on file in with the FFA Advisors.  If there are any questions contact our advisor, Mr. Neuman @ 409-296-8181.

 

 

Sincerely,

 

 

East Chambers FFA

Chapter President

 

TO BE RETURNED

·        Travel Release Form/Acknowledgement Form

 

               

General Information

 

Agricultural Education Mission Statement

Agricultural Education prepares students for successful careers and a lifetime of informed choices in the global agriculture, food, fiber and natural resources systems.

 

FFA Mission

The National FFA Organization is dedicated to making a positive difference in the lives of young people by developing their potential for premier leadership, personal growth and career success through agricultural education.

 

 Membership

The FFA's 455,306 members and 7,226 chapters represent all 50 states, as well as Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. FFA is a diverse organization, operating in rural, urban and suburban schools. Students aged 12-21 enrolled in agricultural education programs are eligible for membership. 

 

Science, Business and Technology

The organization changed its name in 1988 from Future Farmers of America to the National FFA Organization to reflect its evolution in response to expanded agricultural opportunities encompassing science, business and technology in addition to production farming. FFA members, who may enter the workforce directly or pursue higher degrees through technical schools and four-year universities, are preparing for careers in agricultural marketing, processing, communications, education, horticulture, production, natural resources, forestry, agribusiness and other diverse agricultural fields.

 

 

Federally Chartered

The FFA was organized nationally in 1928 in Kansas City, Mo. In 1950, Congress granted the FFA a federal charter, making it an integral, intra-curricular part of public agricultural instruction under the National Vocational Education Acts. Two of the FFA top three executives are employed by the U.S. Department of Education.  To find out more, go to Key Moments in FFA History. General Ag Ed Statistics Average Annual Employment Opportunities for College Graduates in the Food and Agricultural Sciences, United States, 1995-2000:

 
Agriculture Facts

How does Agriculture affect us all……

 

Today’s Farm

• Agriculture is the nation’s largest employer with more than 22 million people working in some phase-from growing food and fiber to selling it at the supermarket.
• There are 2.19 million farms in the United States. The average size of U.S. farms in 1999 was 432 acres.
• There are 165,102 farms operated by women in the United States.
• Individuals, family partnerships or family corporations own 99% of U.S. farms with fewer than 10 stockholders. Non-family corporations own only 0.4% of America’s farms and ranches.

 

 Consumers

• Americans spend 10.9% of their income on food, the lowest percentage in the world. India spends 51.3%, Mexico spends 24.5%, South Africa spends 27.5%, Japan spends 17.6%, Italy spends 17.2% and the UK spends 11.2%.
• It takes about 40 days for most Americans to earn enough money to pay for their food supply for the entire year. It takes that same American 124 days to earn enough money to pay federal, state and local taxes for the year.
• The annual per capita consumption of Americans is: 204.5 pounds of milk, 196.8 pounds of flour and cereal products, 186.5 pounds of fresh vegetables, 131.8 pounds of fresh fruits, 115.6 pounds of red meat, 65 pounds of poultry, 65.3 pounds of fats and oils, 28 pounds of cheese, 18.9 pounds of rice and 244 eggs.

 

International

• The United States provides food at a lower cost, as a percentage of income, than any other country in the world. We produce sufficient surplus to be the nations leading exporter.
• The United States produces 46% of the world’s soybeans, 41% of the world’s corn, 20.5% of the world’s cotton and 13% of the world’s wheat.
• The United States exports $49.1 billion in agricultural products annually and imports $37.5 billion. Asia (not including Japan,

China or East Asia) imports the most ($10.5 billion) and Russia imports the least ($.46 billion).

 

Economy

• The American farmer regains 20¢ of every dollar in agricultural products sold, 39¢ goes to labor, 6¢ goes to taxes and interest, 8.5¢ goes to packaging and the remainder goes to fuel, electricity, transportation, advertising, etc.
• Farm receipts total $208.2 billion dollars each year; most is meat animals ($46,917,000), least is tobacco ($2,308,000).

 

Technology and Environment

• A growing number of farmers and ranchers are using computers and modern technology; 90.7% use a computer, 87.4% own a cellular telephone, 51.3% communicate by fax, 72.2% have access to the Internet and 24.5% make online purchases using e-commerce.
• As of May 2000, farmers enrolled 31.4 million acres of their land in the Conservation Reserve Program to protect the environment and provide habitat for wildlife. Farmers and ranchers provide food and habitat for 75% of the nation’s wildlife.
• Erosion rate by water on U.S. croplands has been reduced by 24% in the last 18 years.
• Only 2 labor hours and one acre of land required to produce 100 bushels of corn, with farmer using a tractor, 5-bottom plow, 25-foot plow, 25-foot tandem disk, planter, 25-foot herbicide applicator, 15-foot self-propelled combine and trucks.

 

*All information gathered from the American Farm Bureau Federation, "Farm Facts" booklet, updated 2000.

 

Structure of FFA

 The FFA operates on local, state and national levels. Student members belong to chapters organized at the local school level. Agricultural education instructors serve as chapter advisors. Chapters are organized under state associations headed by an advisor and executive secretary, often employees of the state department of education. States conduct programs and host annual conventions.

 

The National FFA Organization, governed by a Board of Directors and a Board of Student Officers, charters state associations; provides direction, programmatic materials and support; and hosts the National FFA Convention, which draws more than 45,000 attendees each November. The National FFA Alumni Association's more than 40,000 members in 1,200 affiliates assist in the continued growth and development of active FFA programs.

 

Applied Learning

The agricultural education program provides a well-rounded, practical approach to learning through three components: Classroom education in agricultural topics such as plant and animal sciences, horticulture, forestry, agri-marketing, etc.; hands-on supervised agricultural career experience such as starting a business or working for an established company; and FFA, which provides leadership opportunities and tests students' agricultural skills.

 

Programs and Activities

FFA's local, state and national programs and activities help members develop public speaking skills, conduct and participate in meetings, manage financial matters, strengthen problem-solving abilities and assume civic responsibility. Degrees earned at local, state and national levels recognize members' increasing accomplishments. Competitive events and awards programs in areas such as public speaking, commodity marketing and agriscience recognize students' achievements, encourage them to excel beyond the classroom and develop career skills. Community service programs help students contribute to society.

               

Student Leadership

FFA members elect their own officers and plan and conduct activities with supervision from their chapter advisors. A team of six national officers, typically college students taking a year out of their studies, plays a key role in planning the national convention and other events, and travels more than 100,000 miles during their year of service representing the FFA.

 

FFA Foundation

The National FFA Foundation, Inc., headquartered in Indianapolis, Indiana, works with business and industry, organizations and individuals to raise funds to recognize FFA achievements and support activities at local, state and national levels.

 

Learning by Doing

How would you like to get paid for learning? FFA members start their own businesses or work for an agricultural company throughout high school. Some FFA members have earned hundreds of thousands of dollars by the time they graduated from college by reinvesting their profits in their business!  While most members don't earn quite that much, their experience still puts them way ahead of their classmates when it comes to applying for college or finding a job.

 

Fun

Half a million students across the country are becoming leaders, building self-esteem and preparing for career success. And they're having a great time in the process. They're members of FFA, the organization for students in agricultural education and they're making new friends, going new places and trying new things.

                   They're having a blast doing it!

 

 

WE LEARN BY DOING!

WHATS IN IT FOR YOU?

(Student Activities)

 

Participation on Leadership Teams

1.     Chapter Conducting Teams                 6.      FFA Quiz Team

2.  Farms Skills Team                               7.      FFA Creed Speaking

3.     Farm Radio Team                               8.      Public Relations Team

4.     Extemporaneous Speaking                 9.      Prepared Public Speaking

5.     Soil Stewardship Public Speaking     10.    Job Interview

 

Judging Teams

1.      Agricultural Mechanics                       5.      Dairy Cattle Judging

2.      Horse Judging                                      6.      Livestock Judging

3.      Poultry Judging                                   7.      Meats Judging

4.      Horticulture Judging                           8.      Tractor Mechanics

 

Exhibition of Livestock

1.    Beef Cattle

2.    Swine

3.    Sheep

4.    Poultry (Broilers and Turkeys)

5.    Rabbits

6.    Goats

 

The FFA Chapter has members that participate in the Southeast Texas   State Fair, Trinity Valley Exposition, Texas Rice Festival, San Antonio Livestock Expo, Houston Livestock Show, and the Chambers County Youth Project Livestock Show.  Members also participate in several jackpot/prospect shows throughout the summer months and during the school year.

 

Individual Awards

          FFA members can compete for many individual awards at the local, district, area, state, and national levels.  These include awards in proficiency in the various project areas, star awards for outstanding first, second, third, and fourth year students, as well as four degrees of membership in the FFA.  These degrees are Greenhand, Chapter, State, and American Degrees.  As a student becomes a senior, he/she is eligible to apply for several scholarships through the FFA.  As a student becomes a senior, he/she is eligible to apply for several scholarships through the FFA:   The J.C. Ricklefson Memorial Scholarship, the State FFA Scholarship and National FFA Scholarship.

 

Other Activities:

Community Service

The East Chambers FFA Chapter participates in several community service projects throughout the school year.  A few of the projects are:

1.     The Houston Livestock Show Tour Guide Program:  We have taken part in this program for a number of years.  This program allows our students to escort inner city elementary age children through several exhibits at the show and explain their purposes as well as the importance of American Agriculture.

2.     Cooperative projects:  Along with other organizations in the school and community, our FFA members are encouraged to assist and participate in order to develop a sense of accomplishment in meeting needs.

3.     AG Adventure Day: In the spring of the year, the FFA Chapter Members coordinate and participate in an educational day for the East Chambers Elementary School students. It is an all day event in which the FFA Members maintain over 15 booths related to agriculture.

 

Camps and Conventions:  FFA members are provided opportunities to attend and participate in leadership camps and area, state, and national FFA conventions.  In order to participate, the FFA members need to be officers or award recipients.

 

Note:  Throughout the year, other activities take place that are too numerous to mention.  Each FFA member is encouraged to take part in as many of the activities as possible in order to feel a part of the total FFA experience.

(FFA MEMBERSHIP IS REQUIRED FOR ALL THE LISTED ACTIVITIES)

There is something for everybody in the FFA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

FFA AWARDS GIVEN ABOVE THE LOCAL LEVEL:

 

    1.      AGRICULTURE ELECTIFICATION

2. AGRICULTURE MECHANICS
3. AGRICULTURE PROCESSING
4. AGRI-SALE AND SERVICE
5. BEEF PRODUCTION
6. CEREAL GRAIN PRODUCTION
7. DAIRY PRODUCTION
8. DIVERSIFIED CROP PROD.
9. DIV. LIVESTOCK PROD.
10. FEED GRAIN PRODUCTION
11. FIBER CROP PRODUCTION
12. FORAGE PRODUCTION
13. FLORICULTURE
14. FOREST MANAGEMENT
15. FRUIT &/OR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
16.  HOME/FARMSTEAD IMPROVEMENT
17. HORSE PROFICIENCY
18. NURSERY OPERATIONS
19. OIL CROP PRODUCTION
20. OUTDOOR RECREATION
21. PLACEMENT IN AGRI.
22. POULTRY PRODUCTION
23. SHEEP PRODUCTION
24. SOIL/WATER MANAGEMENT
25. SPECIALTY CROP PROD.
26. SWINE MANAGEMENT
27. TURF/LANDSCAPE MANG.
28. WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT

 

STATE AND NATIONAL FFA STAR AWARDS:

 

STAR GREENHAND

STAR CHAPTER FARMING

STAR STATE FARMING (LONE STAR FARMER0

STAR STATE AGRI-BUSINESS OF AMERICAN

STAR STATE AGRI-BUSINESSMAN

STAR STATE OF AMERICA

 

FFA MEMBERSHIP

 

            Enrollment in an Agri-science class does not require a student to be an FFA member:  However, in order to take advantage of the many activities that coincide with the courses, and FFA membership is strongly recommended.  Activities, which require membership, include:  leadership teams, judging teams, showing of livestock, and application for awards and scholarships during the senior year.

        The amount of the membership dues is usually set at the first FFA meeting of the school year.  The dues for the school year will be $10.00/member.  The price of the dues pays for each student to be a member at the district, area, state, and national FFA level.  Payment of the FFA dues also provides each member with a magazine subscription, activities, and the annual Parent/Member Banquet at the end of the year.

 

FFA JACKETS

 

            All active FFA members will need to purchase an FFA jacket as part of the official dress for FFA members.  The official dress for boys is as follows:  FFA jacket, FFA tie, white dress shirt, and black boots or shoes.  The official dress for girls is as follows:  FFA jacket, FFA scarf, white shirt, black skirt or pants, black hose, and black shoes.  The approximate price for the FFA jacket and tie/scarf $60.00.  Ordering the FFA dress items will be done shortly after the school year starts. Official dress will be worn by students while competing in contests, attending meetings, and is suggested when selling projects at the FFA Show. 

 

 

CRITERIA FOR EARNING AN FFA LETTER JACKET:

 

To be eligible to earn a letter jacket for the FFA a student must have never received a Barbers Hill jacket in any area of school competition.

 

He or she must complete #1 and any one of the following (#2-10)

1. *  He or she must be a consecutive- FFA member in their third (3^rd) semester or a first year freshman enrolled in any agriculture science class at East Chambers High School. (9^th Grade- 12^th Grade Only)
2. Have shown any animal for 2 years at the youth project show in Anahuac and one year at either Liberty, Beaumont or Houston Stock Shows, and have plans for a S.A.E. program for the current year.
3. Have won grand or reserve champion with any animal at any of the above-mentioned shows.
4. Have placed in the top 4 of any of the FFA leadership contest on the area level.
5. Have placed in the top 5 or qualified for the state contest in the judging contest that are held in the spring.
6. Have placed in the top ten as an individual in any leadership or judging contest on the area level.
7. Have earned the State FFA Degree.
8. Have placed in the top 4 in any of the speaking contest on the area level.
9. Have qualified to the state level in any proficiency award.
10. Have been elected to a district, area or a state office.

 

AGRICULTURAL EXPERIENCE PROGRAM

 

The Chambers County Youth Project Show is held in May.

All Rulebooks may be picked up at the Chambers County Court House Annex in Anahuac sometime after the December tag in for Steers and FI heifers.

 

The SAEP seems to be an area in which both students and parents questions.  Hopefully, some of the basic questions will be answered here.

 

One of the first questions to be asked is,

“Do I have to raise an animal to be in Ag and/or the FFA?” 

The answer is

“No, you do not.” 

We realize that not all students are available to raise an animal project for various reasons.  There are many other activities available to students who are unable to participate in the animal project area to do so.  This area of the Agriculture program is important and will enable students to receive a more complete concept of the total program.  Students enrolled in an Agri-Science class are provided a list of activities related to that class which can be used as a supplement or in place of an animal project.  These activities are valued in a point per semester per Agri-Science class to receive credit.

Other frequency asked questions include:

 

1.                 What kind of animal?  Student are able to exhibit the following animals at the Chambers County Youth Project Show: Beef cattle (market steers & breeding beef) swine, (market swine), sheep, goats, turkey, chicken (broilers), and rabbits (fryers, breeding stock, fur, or meet), open poultry (quail, pheasants,)

 

2.                 How much do they cost?  Obviously, steers cost more than a pen of broilers to raise.  For this reason, we have asked some of our students to address this issue later on for each of the species include in our program.

 

3.       When do I get my animal?  This will depend on two factors:  The type of animal and which show you want to participate in.  Market steers, for the Chambers County Youth Project Show need to be purchased and on feed no later than Nov. 1.  Market lambs & goats need to be purchased in Sept-Oct-Nov.    Broilers and turkey projects for CCYPS will be ordered during the school year.  Turkeys in December and Broilers in February.   ****Students desiring to raise poultry for, San Antonio, or Houston must have ordered them by May.  Major show Turkeys will be picked up in October.

 

3.                 What kind of facility/pen do I need for my animal?  This will depend on the type of animal that you raise.  Once you have made this decision, contact one of the Agri-Science teachers and we will be glad to assist you in planning your facility.

 

5.   Where is a good place to buy my animal?  There is a definite need to understand that we are dealing with SHOW ANIMALS, not commercial grade animals.  Animals that are exhibited in livestock shows are not ordinary “farm animals”.  They are bred to be of a higher quality, specifically for shows.  We will be happy to assist you in locating quality show stock if you ask.  All of the poultry projects (broilers and turkeys) are purchased through the CCYPS from one hatchery.

Stock Show Rules

 

All stock shows attended by East Chambers FFA have specific rules, which must be followed. An exhibitor violation any rule may be given one verbal warning. The second violation may automatically result in the disqualification from any show under the discretion of the Advisor. All exhibitors must adhere to the following rules:

 

1.  Exhibitors will remember any show attended by East Chambers FFA is a school activity.    All rules pertaining to school activities will be adhered to. NO PASS NO PLAY, etc..

2.       Exhibitors will not be allowed to leave the show grounds without permission from agriculture teachers.

3.    It is up to the exhibitors to secure their own transportation to and from the show for feedings.                      

3.       Beef/Dairy Exhibitors will have animals out of the barn 8 am and 5-6 pm to feed and clean stalls. All beef/dairy exhibitors must work cooperatively to clean and rake the stalls and the walkways in front of the entire BH FFA cattle stall.

4.       Lamb/goat/swine exhibitors must feed and water animals by 8am & 5-6pm. Animals must be walked everyday in the exercise area. This will prevent them from getting sore. All exhibitors must Clean their individual pens and the walkways in front of their animals pen or pens.

5.       Rabbits & poultry will need to feed and water by 8am and 5pm. All exhibitors must clean their individual pens and the walkways in front of their animals pen or pens.

6.       Exhibitors will be assigned stall duties throughout the livestock show as necessary. Keep coke cans and clothes put away and not in view.

7.       Students will be the only persons to work stall duties. We ask that parents please do not work stalls.  It is the responsibility of the exhibitor. Judges will not reward the chapter for stall award points if adults are seen working the cleanup and maintance.

8.       Exhibitors will not congregate in the tack area. The exhibit area is not the place for loud or disruptive behavior.

9.       Exhibitors will exhibit sportsmanship expected of them as members of the FFA.

10.   Exhibitors are responsible for the care of their own animal.  Exhibitors must maintain their own SAE projects. The exhibitor may ask for assistance but remember, it is the responsibility of the exhibitor to groom, trim, bath and present his/her livestock.

 

Again, we ask that parents assist the students but remember:

To help is great-----------doing it for them is not teaching them.

Show times are varied and can only be estimated as to exact time of entering arena.  Exhibitor should pace their time as to grooming and changing their own clothes for show.

         

Show Pigs

 

Selection

Selection is the first step in starting your project.  A few key points to remember are:

         

1.     Buy from a reputable SHOW PIG breeder.  If you need help in

Locating pigs see your Ag Teachers; we will help you find pigs. The chapter will be going in January to purchase YPS pigs. You may go with us or find a pig on your own.

2.     Know the show that you are participating in.  At the CCYPS Show you may show gilts or barrows.  The major livestock shows (Houston, San Antonio, Fort Worth) allow only barrows to be shown in the market show.

3.     Breed:  Unless you are showing at a show with breed classes, you should use one of the following breeds—Yorkshire, Duroc, Hampshire, or a crossbred pig. 

4.     Age:  It is extremely important that you purchase the right age pig.  The pigs should be between 5 ½ to 6 ½ months of age at the time of the show.

5.     Weight limits:  check current show book.

 

Facilities

Good, functional facilities are essential to a successful swine project.  The ideal pen set would be as follows:

 

                           10’                        20’                            water

 

 

             10’

 

 

       

                 Feed

 

 

Pens should have a covered area (grey area) that is open to the south side.  The pens should not have any obstructions such as exposed sharp edges on which the pig may hurt itself.  The pen needs to stay as clean and dry as possible.  Pens should have some type of bedding material in them.  Sand and shavings work the best.  Hay should be avoided as it provides an environment for parasites.

 

Feeders and waterers:  Feeders may be as simple as a common feed pan or automatic feeders may be used.  An important thing to remember is that the feeder should not be on the ground, it should be elevated slightly so that the pig does not eat “bent over”.  The feeder may be set up on a concrete block or built on a stand.  The best type of waterer to use is the automatic type.  If an automatic waterer is used the area directly around it should be filled in with concrete or some type of concrete blocks to prevent mud holes.  If buckets are used, they should be firmly secured to prevent the pig from tipping them over and making a mud hole.

 

Feeds and Feeding

 

Many pig shows are won and lost in the feed pan.  Many students have started out with very high quality animals and have ended up with an inferior animal at show time due to improper management.  There are no real “secrets” of feeding animals.  Consistency is the best advice that can be given. It is important to stick with the same feed.  A couple general guidelines to follow are: 

 

1.     Make sure the feed is designed for SHOW PIGS!!!!

2.     The feed should contain at least 18% protein

3.     The feed should be low in crude fat

4.     WORM every 30 days. Stop worming 30 days prior to show date for withdrawal period.

 

Feeding Procedures:  The best method is hand feeding. The amount of the feed is limited to a certain amount at set times during the day.  This type of feeding is used to prepare your pig for the show (regulating the pig so that it will go into the show at the weight you desire).  There are some rules of thumb for hand feeding: The pig should be fed two times a day.  If you decide to feed at 7:00am and 6:00pm then feed at that time everyday (weekends included!!!) for best results.  Animals get used to routines just as you do.  Most pigs will need to be “held” or “drawn” before the show.  We can give you advice on this depending on the appearance of your animal at that time.  Offer automatic water 24 hours per day unless advisor instructs you differently.

 

Equipment and Supplies

You will need various types of equipment and supplies for your pig throughout the year and at the show.  The following is a list of needed items:

Paint or Id. your name on every item.  They tend to look like everyone else’s at show.

          Show Stick                               Feed and water pans

          Brush                                       Soap

          Show Sheen                             Towels

          Short Water Hose                     1lb coffee can

          Kitchen Scale

These supplies will be needed mainly at show time.

The coffee can and kitchen scale will be used to measure feed.

 

Wormer

Do not trust feeds that have mixed wormer.  Worm every 21 days.  (Panacur every 14 days, Ivomec every 28 days, or Safeguard every 21 days-2cc a day for three days)

 

Antibiotics

These are medicines that are available at several area feed stores that will assist you in treating problems that may occur.

1 bottle Lincomix 300 - Muscular and skeletal aches

1 bottle Tylan 200 - Everything else

 

At first sight of any changes in eating habits, runny nose, coughing, etc., give Tylan 200 as directed into the muscle.  At first sight of a limp, 5cc Tylan and 5cc Lincomix daily for 5 consecutive days.  At first sight of diarrhea, give 5cc of keopectate.  It is a must that these animals be observed daily for changes in eating and movement habits.  You cannot wait for ailments to go away untreated.  Please notify us ASAP as to any major sign of a problem that you feel unsure of how to treat.  We would like to assist you in any way you may need.

 

*Tag in is the first Saturday in February 9am-11am at Whites Park

*Buy pigs in January

 

Lambs

 

Supplies needed for your lamb

*I.D./paint name on every item

 

          Collar and lead rope

          Socks

          Muzzle

          Clippers

          Clipper Blades * should keep on hand sharpened

          Lamb blanket

          Feed pan and water bucket to travel with

          Antibiotic, syringes, needles

          Wound Dressing

          Drench gun

Probias with Vitamins

 

Feeding and Health

 

Ø      Feed your lamb twice a day on a regular routine. 2 lbs. feed/day for maintaince.

Ø     Worm your lamb once a month to prevent from making your lamb sick.  It is recommended to switch the wormer so the animal does not get accustomed to the same medicine.  Can use cydectin liquid pour on for cattle @ 3-4 cc’s/per 100 pounds given orally.

Ø     You can wet feed lambs by adding a recommended amount of water to the feed to an oatmeal consistency. Free choice hay is not always good for the lambs either, as they will eat hay and may not finish their feed. A small recommended portion of alfalfa or other hay may be given 1ce/wk or other recommended amounts per the individual lamb.

Ø     If your lamb needs extra bloom or weight you can use a show shake type mix.

Ø     Probiatics with vitamins is also a good additive to your feed intake.

Ø     Loose minerals

Ø     Trim hooves regulary

Ø     Sheer every month during warm weather

 

Exercising

Exercise is the next most important thing to feeding. Exercising helps the lamb maintain a good appetite and firms his body so it handles well for the judge. There are many different ways you can exercise your lamb. But we have listed a few for you.

1.                 Run your lamb for 4-6 minutes every other day 45 days before show date and then cool him down with a slow walk.

2.                 Make a round track and use a dog trained to run on the outside of the fence to chase your lamb over obstacles or on a flat surface. You must have a completely dog proof fence to protect your lamb from the dog. The dog may try to eat your lamb when you’re not around if he is not trained properly.

3.                 A treadmill may also be used to exercise. Recommended to use every other day 6-8 minutes or until the lambs mouth drops open.

4.                 A wheeled cart pulled with front two feet on a platform of the wheeled cart.

5.                 PRACTICE SETTING UP AND DRIVING

 

Another important thing to do when exercising your lamb is to teach him/her how to drive or handle for you. Each lamb needs to learn how to drive because this gives him a better appearance to the judge. There are several lamb feeders in the FFA chapter that would be glad to show you how to handle your lamb.

 

 

Facilities

 

It is recommended that you build a pen 8’ x 12’. This is more than an adequate amount of space for the lamb. Free choice water can blow out the lambs rib cage. It is imperative that you keep your lamb freshly watered and fed. The pen needs to be filled with fresh sand each time you get a lamb. You don’t want dirt because it packs down.  Be sure you clean your facility daily to keep your lamb from picking up parasites. It is also recommended that the building have plenty of air circulation.

 

Expense List 

Here is an example list that a lamb feeder has provided to us.  We hope that this list of expense will help you see what type and how much expense goes into raising a lamb.

 

Supplies                                                Amount

Lamb feed -----------------------------$    9.75 a bag/total for 1 yr=154.05 estimate

Halter and lead rope------------------$ 18.00

Socks-------------------------------------$ 19.00

Muzzle --------------------------------- $   7.75

Blanket----------------------------------$ 15.00

Clippers---------------------------------$225.00 *

lumber for your pen------------------$ 250.00

Broilers

 

Housing

          Expensive housing and equipment are not necessary.  However; a clean, dry structure that can be well ventilated, a brooder or heat lamps to warm the chicks, and feeding and watering equipment are needed.  Provide at least 2 square feet of floor space per broiler.  Openings on three sides of the building provide plenty of fresh air for the weather.  Plastic sheeting can be used to close the sides during brooding and in cold weather.  Make certain the concrete or dirt floor is at least 6 inches above ground level to prevent flooding.  The roof overhang should be sufficient to effectively protect against blowing rain.

 

Purchasing Chicks

            At least 35-50 broiler type pullet chicks should be purchased.  Pullets carry more flesh over the back and have a more rounded appearance of the breast, thighs, and legs.  With 50 or more broilers to choose from, it is easier to select good, uniform show entries.

 

Preparation and Brooding

          Clean and disinfect the broiler house, feeders and water trough at least two weeks before the chicks arrive.  Wash the house down with soap and water.  Then spray a commercial disinfectant labeled in use for poultry houses.

            Be prepared for the chicks two days in advance.  Put at least 4 inches of litter on the floor of the cleaned, disinfected house.  Wood shavings, cane fiber, course dry sawdust, or rice hulls make a good litter.  Hay makes a very poor litter.  Keep all sticks, boards, and sharp objects away from the broiler house.

            Construct a cardboard brooder guard (brooder circle) to keep chicks near heat, water, and feed.  The brooder guard should be 18 inches high and must be a minimum of 5 feet in diameter for 50 chicks.  When chicks are seven days old, remove the guard and allow them full freedom of the pen.

            Electric heat lamps (infrared bulbs) are good heat sources for brooding chicks.  Two 125-watt bulbs per 50 chicks are recommended.  Make certain lamps are secured so they cannot fall to the litter and create a fire hazard.  The lamps should hang 18-24 inches from the litter.  Lamps can be lowered or raised depending on the temperature conditions.  Place waterers a good distance from the lamps to prevent splashing water from cracking the hot bulbs.  When chicks are comfortable, they will bed down in a semi-circle around the perimeter of the heat zone.  If cold, chicks will crowd under the heat source.  After the broilers are four weeks old and fully feathered, heat is seldom required.

 

Lighting

            Provide all-night light for broilers.  Twenty-four hour lighting (natural or artificial) improves feathering and increases weight, especially during the summer months.  Hang a 40-watt bulb at least six feet above broilers after removing heat lamps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Feeding

            It is absolutely essential that broilers receive a quality feed containing at least 20 percent protein.  Lower protein feeds will not do the job.  The 1^st 50lbs of feed fed to chicks should be turkey starter then follow w/ a complete broiler ration not a starter or grower.

            If broilers are to be shown in a show without a maximum weight limit, chicks should be started on a high protein (26 to 30 percent) turkey or game bird starter to stimulate additional growth. 

            An adequate level of vitamins in the diet is required to prevent leg weakness.  Adequate vitamin intake can be assured and leg problems minimized by adding water-soluble poultry vitamins and electrolytes to drinking water at the manufacturers’ recommended level for the first fourteen days.  Do not add vitamins and electrolytes past this period.  Continued high levels can create health problems.

All broilers should be able to eat at once.  One pie or cookie pan for feed and one chick waterer per 25 chicks are needed the first seven days.  From one through four weeks, one tube-type feeder per 25 broilers is required.  After four weeks, one tube-type feeder is needed for every 15 broilers.  Broilers must have access to fresh water at all times.  One 2-gallon waterer per 50 chicks is required from one through four weeks.  One 2-gallon waterer per pen is required after broilers are culled at the end of the fourth week.  Waterers should be rinsed daily and scrubbed twice weekly.

Feed must be kept before broilers at all times if maximum growth is to be attained.  Feeders and waterers should be kept adjusted so that the trough portion is level with the back height of the broilers.

Broilers respond to attention.  Walk among broilers and stir the feed three to five times per day.  This will provide exercise and increase feed consumption and growth.

 

Ventilation

If broilers become too hot or cold, growth will be retarded.  When the broilers are well feathered, open the house and allow plenty fresh air to circulate.  The ideal growing temperature is 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit after the broilers pass four weeks of age.

During the winter months, keep the south side of the house open after the broilers reach four weeks of age unless the temperature falls below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Supplemental heat may be needed in cold weather.  In hot weather, use fans to move air across the broilers

RAISING A GOAT PROJECT

 

 

¨      It is necessary that you purchase your own set of clipper blades to be used to sheer your animal. Ringworm and many other problems can be eliminated if you keep your own personal set of clipper blades ready for use: sterilized and sharp. The Advisors have clipper motors you may check out from the department.

 

 

WHAT TO DO FIRST

¨      Decide what shows you are going to and get a copy of the show rules the show office for major shows.

¨      Read the rules, most shows have age requirements (tooth rule), weight limits, shearing, and horn rules. This will determine what breed and age goat you need. Most county shows have a validation date. Some shows require a health certificate from the vet within 30 days of the show.

¨      All goats need access to clean fresh water and clean fresh feed and very limited amounts of hay.

¨      Be prepared - goats need a good fence and some shelter. Goats need shelter to be able to get out of the wind, rain, and hot summer sun.

¨      Make a commitment to take care of your goat twice a day. When you feed you need to watch your goat long enough so you can tell when he is sick or something is not quite right.

 

HOME RAISED

¨      Vaccinate does with Clostridium C&D Toxoid plus Tetanus (CD&T) 3 to 6 weeks before kidding. This vaccine is very sensitive keep refrigerated at all times.

¨      Treat navels with 7% iodine at birth, this prevents joint ill - an infection of the navel cord.

¨      Disbud, tag (optional), and vaccinate kids with Tetanus Antitoxin at 10-14 days old. Always give tetanus antitoxin at every surgery (dehorning & castration).

¨      Watch for coccida, this usually affects kids about one month of age.

¨      Start on 16%-17% goat ration with a coccidiostat and ammonia chloride or ammonia sulfate to prevent urinary calculi.

¨      Vaccinate with CD&T at 12 weeks.

¨      Give CD&T booster 21-30 days later.

¨      Treat for worms at 4 to 6 weeks old - dosage & effective products vary with climate and management conditions (pasture or pen raised) consult a local vet, local breeders or your agriculture instructor for the appropriate wormers & dosages.

¨      Wait till at least 12 weeks old to castrate, this will help prevent urinary calculi problems by allowing the urethra process to mature.

 

 

PURCHASED WETHERS

¨      If you can purchase a goat that has been castrated, disbudded if necessary, weaned and on feed. This will prevent a lot of setbacks. It is worth paying extra for a goat that is ready to go.

¨      Inquire about past vaccination & medication history - write it down!

¨      Booster or start CD&T vaccinations and sore-mouth if appropriate.

¨      Check for worms & coccodia - you can have a fecal run at the vet - treat if necessary.

¨      Administer a probiotic (Fasttrack, Calf Pac or Probias) and B Complex weekly to stimulate appetite.

¨      Start goats on a commercial goat ration - prepared rations have all the vitamins and minerals needed for a growing goat. Purchase one that contains a coccidiostat and ammonium chloride or ammonium sulfate to prevent urinary calculi.

¨      Goats are ruminants; they need daily access to hay. SHOW GOATS only need a small amount of hay/day. Some people prefer to give them their fiber intake within their feed source so not to blow out the rib cage. Provide leafy grass hay such as Sudan or Hay grazer, and a limited amount of alfalfa.

¨      Goats also need free choice minerals & salt. Loose minerals are preferred over mineral blocks.

¨      Watch for respiratory infections and coccidiosis the first week especially.

¨      After eating feed and healthy for at least one week castrate & dehorn if needed. Don't do both at the same time. Dehorning a grown goat is very stressful on an animal. It is safer to disbud goats as kids. Do not dehorn during fly season. Dehorning leaves an open wound into the sinus cavity. This is best done in cooler weather. Dehorning will set your goat back, plan ahead.

 

GIVING INJECTIONS TO MARKET GOATS

¨      Remember your project is a market animal and will end up in the food chain. Carcass quality is important avoid giving injections in the hindquarters which is the most valuable part of the carcass.

¨      ALL injections should be in brisket, armpit, or in pectoral muscle. The "ideal" injection site for a show goat is under the skin of the left armpit. If it does make a bump - it is less likely to be seen by the judge. Give all vaccinations here or in the "V" in the brisket.

¨      Check drugs for approval for food animals

¨      Be careful and watch withdraw dates on medications given, keep track on calendar with show dates.  Take off all medication and or medicated feed 30 days before the market show.

¨      Always keep a dose of epinephrine in the fridge. Goats and other animals can go into anaphylactic shock. This usually happens when giving repeated doses, and is more likely to happen when giving penicillin IM. Goats are sensitive to the carrier in most penicillin.

 

METHODS OF CASTRATING GOATS

¨      Banding is probably the most popular method of castrating young goats. A rubber band is placed around the testicles and cuts off the circulation. After a few days they dry up and can be cut off to prevent infection.

¨      Emasculators (Burdizzo) is another "bloodless" method, the cord to the testicles is crushed with a pair of emasculators which acts like a clamp. Crush cords one at a time, never both at once.

¨      Surgical - Watch for contamination in dirt pens, and by flies.

 

TRAINING YOUR GOAT FOR SHOW

¨      First step to training is putting a chain collar on your goat and tie him up. Never leave a tied goat unattended. A goat can hang himself or break his neck very quickly.

¨      When teaching your goat to lead, keep the collar up next to the jaw. This gives you more leverage and control.

¨      Teach your goat to stand a little at a time, be happy with little advancements. Make him stand a little longer every time.

¨      Don't over work your goat, work in short sessions. Quit practice on a good note. Make sure he does something good before you let him go or feed him.

 

 

 

 

 

HELPFUL HINTS FOR RAISING HEALTHY, HAPPY, AND CHAMPION GOATS

¨      Check and clean water daily - no animal wants to drink dirty water.

¨      Treat for parasites and trim feed every 21-30 days. It is important to keep these show wethers feet trimmed so they grow straight and correct.

¨      Feed a commercial goat feed. These usually are well balanced and contain everything your goat needs in a concentrate.

¨      Goats need roughage (hay) to keep there rumen functioning. They do not do well on just grains. Alfalfa and leafy grass hays - such as Sudan, Hay grazer or Johnson Grass make good palatable hay for goats.

¨      Keep baking soda out free choice - it is good for an occasional bellyache, and will help prevent acidosis.

¨      Feed twice a day & clean out feeders before feeding.

¨      We set our feeders up high - makes them stretch and keeps manure out of them.

¨      Watch wethers urinate when they get up, they should urinate a steady stream. At first sign of dribbling urine or straining call the vet. Chances are good that the goat can be saved, but you must act fast!

¨      Start training to lead when young. A #4 flat chain works great for collars & can be bought at Wal-Mart, use OB Chain for white necked goats - it doesn't turn their neck gray. Bit snaps make great collar fasteners be careful leaving collars on goats - make sure they can't hang it on anything.

¨      Double end snaps are indispensable - use to tie goats and hang buckets and feeders.

¨      Give B complex vitamins (injectable kind orally 2cc-3cc) and probiotic once a week to stimulate appetite, prevent tummy aches & complications from stress.

¨      Change water a few days before the show. Get goats used to drinking out of same bucket that you will take to the show.

¨      If goats quit eating or are not eating well, take off grain for 24 hours and feed alfalfa or grass hay. Give them a dose of probiotic and B Complex.

¨      30-45 days before the big show we add Show bloom (or similar additive) & crimped corn, it seems to help firm them up & keep them eating. Show bloom or other additive makes a good treat, it can be hand fed. Watch feeding whole corn to wethers who are loosing there teeth - it may hasten the process.

¨      Have fun at the shows!

 

GUIDELINES FOR SHOWMANSHIP

¨       This is not a lamb, don't "brace" your goat or pick his front legs off the ground.

¨      Always keep your goat between you and the judge. Never block the judges’ view of your animal with your body.

¨      When turning or moving your goat, move in front of the goat, not behind him.

¨      Always watch the judge, but don't forget your goat - keep him set up square.

¨      Be prepared - train your goat to lead and stand at home before the first show. Before the show, walk your goat in the show arena if possible, this way he will be accustomed to the new surroundings, and footing.

¨      Know what your goat weighs, how old he is and what breed he is.

¨      Common questions in showmanship include what, how much, and what protein feed you use, what you worm with (including dosage), and what do you use to vaccinate you goats.

 

GOING TO YOUR FIRST SHOW

¨       Read the rules before the show. Remember some shows do not let you clip on the show grounds.

¨      Keep a notebook in your show box. Keep track of the Judges name, how you placed what he looks for - this will help you greatly later.

¨       Some shows require slick sheared goats, some 3/8" clip, others just a trim. Try to do this before the show, slicks shear goats around one-two weeks before the show; provide a blanket and/or warm shelter if the weather is cold.

¨       Watch you goat and make sure he doesn't dehydrate. Traveling stresses your goats. If you pinch the goats skin up and it stands up, instead of returning to normal in a couple seconds your goat is dehydrated and needs fluids.

¨      Arrive early; make sure you’re in time for the weigh-in.

¨      Make a check-list before hand of everything you need to take so you don't forget something in the excitement

¨      Goat show box - you won't need as much going to a one-day show as traveling overnight to one. Be prepared. We use a plastic gearbox with a lockable lid, works great; it's inexpensive, and lightweight.

¨       Extra collar

¨       Double end snaps & a couple short pieces of chain

¨       Show notebook & pen

¨       Paper work - registration, membership cards, and entry forms & health papers if requested or if traveling out of state.

¨       Brush & rags (wet washrag in plastic bag to clean up exhibitor) 

¨       Hoof trimmers (this should ideally be done at home)

¨       Water bucket, pack your own water if your goat is picky

¨       Feed, hay, & feeders

¨       Clippers, extension cords, and stands - if allowed some shows do not let you clip on the grounds.

¨       Electrolytes & drench gun for dehydration (pedialite works fine)

¨       Pepto or Kaopectate for scours & 12cc syringes

¨       Ear taggers if you have them for the big shows - saves time signing theirs out.

¨       Fly spray

 

HEALTH PROBLEMS IN MEAT GOATS

¨       Treat penned goats for parasites (worms) every 21-30 days.

¨       Tapeworms do not show up on a fecal test, they look like grains of rice in fresh feces.

¨       Watch out for coccidiosis. Young kids will scour and go down quickly, treat with Albon, Corrid, or Sulmet give Fasttrack or probis to restart rumen activity. Coccidiosis can be verified by the vet with a fecal sample.

¨       Fungi - goats that travel can pick up diseases from other goats, pens, and trailers. Ringworm and the itch are common and both contagious to humans. Treat with betadine or nolvason ointment. Where gloves when treating. We spray our goats with a Kaptan or clorox solution before we load them up from a show. Also spray     anything you took in the barn - show box, feeders, buckets, brushes, and the bottoms of your boots. This helps prevent bringing it home.

¨       If you goat is scratching check for lice or mites. Ivermectins and topical applications (dips, spray on, & pour on) are available to control external parasites.

¨       Soremouth - wart like sores around the mouth. Can be transmitted to the doe's udder and to humans.  Vaccines are available. Once a goat has had sore-mouth, they will not get it again.

¨       Bloat - the goat's gut is greatly distended and has trouble breathing or moving. This is serious and prompt treatment is required. Free choice baking soda will help prevent bloat. Drenching or tubing with vegetable oil can treat bloat.

¨       Polio - this is a thiamin deficiency caused by a bacterial infection or treatment with a thiamin-depleting drug such as Corrid. The goat stumbles, is lame, and can't see. This needs to be treated immediately with large doses of thiamin.

¨       Keep tetanus and Entrotoximia (overeating) vaccinations up to date. Goats on heavy feed should be vaccinated every six months.

¨       Urinary calculi - calcium stones form in the male's urinary tract similar to kidney stones in people. Feed feeds with ammonium sulfate or ammonium chloride added or top-dress your rations with these additives to prevent these problems. If your goat strains to urinate or just dribbles seek qualified help immediately. Keep ammonia chloride on hand and treat immediately (available by special order from most feed stores)

 

 

TAKING CARE OF THE DOES

¨       Purchase does from CAE and CL free herds, these diseases are contagious and CL is contagious to humans.

¨       Vaccinate does annually 3 to 6 weeks before kidding with CD&T booster.

¨       Keep parasite free and on good feed. Remember your does need feed for themselves, for their growing babies, and for milk production.

¨       Keep feet trimmed as needed.

¨       Provide shelter for kidding in in-climate weather. If kidding in pens, dip navels in 7% iodine at birth.

 

TO OWN OR NOT TO OWN

¨       If you have just a few does it is hard to justify the initial cost and upkeep of a buck.

¨       Most folks with bucks will breed your animals for a fee, which is usually less than feeding a buck for a year.

¨       Goats can be artificially inseminated very successfully, if the buck you dream of is 3 states away, no problem.

¨       Bucks need extra good pens; they are mischievous and will destroy what they can, because they can.

¨      Bucks stink during rut; you don't want one near your backyard BBQ.

Bucks are usually bigger, more aggressive, and could be dangerous to you and young children.

Bucks tend to be aggressive during rut, pay attention to them at all times.

 

Goat Supplies               To have on hand or in show box

 

Medical

Probias w/ vitamins- gives 3-4 days prior to transport and after

Wormer

Koapectate or Pepto Bismol

Tylan 200, B12 complex

Baking Soda

Clorox

Betadine Solution

Spray bottle

Syringes, 3cc, 12cc, 60cc

Needles, 20g, 18g, 16g

Sponge or Cotton Balls

FOLDERS/ NOTEBOOK FOR QUICK REFERENCE MEDICAL INFO

Red cell, B12

 

Feed Equipment

Water bucket

Hay feeder

Feed Through or Bucket

Feed (for 1-2 goats, you can put separate feeding in small plastic bags with supplements per feedings instead of hauling 50# bags to show)

Hay

 

Showing Equipment

¨       It is recommended that you purchase your own set of clipper blades to be used to sheer your animal. Ringworm and many other problems can be eliminated if you keep your own personal set of clipper blades ready for use: sterilized and sharp. The Advisors have clipper motors you may check out from the department.

 

Hoof nippers

Clippers & Sharp Blades

Extension Cord

Scissors

Short Water hose and Nozzle

Baby Wipes

Brushes Extra Towels

Shampoo

Blow Dryer

Clip Rack

 

Miscellaneous Items

Notebook containing all paperwork, registration papers if applicable, and health papers if required for show.

Entry information

Name Board or Signs

Small box containing wire pliers, small rope, wire, hammer, pencil, maker.

Rake, Shovel, Broom

 

For Transporting

¨       Probias 3-4 days before and after

¨       Watch goat closely for listlessness or droopy appearance.  Can give Tylan 200, fresh water and hay

¨       Back off of sweet feed during transporting. If stool gets loose, just hay and H20.  Use Kao or Pepto if necessary.

 

For Scours (diarrhea)

Try #1 if it persists 24 hrs. more try #2, etc.

1.        Kaopertate  or Pepto Bismol~give a regular human dose by weight

2.        Sulfa dimethoxyzine (to mix with Kaopertate) per label instructions.  This combination will cure coccidiosis and most bacterial infections.

3.        Worm medicine.

 

For Bloat, or ingestion of feed, or plants causing acidosis

1.             Baking soda (1 Tablespoon with 10cc water given by mouth with a syringe without needle) any adult dose of antacid will do.  Kid goat dose is 1 tsp. Or either product.

2.             Banamine 1cc per 100lbs. Of body weight if the goat is in great distress. This exhibited when goat is down, belly very distended, rapid respiration’s, some grunting or groaning. An ear to the belly will reveal loud active bowel and rumen sounds.  This product is available only through a Vet.  If only mild distress is noted, the antacid should be given, and the goat observed closely for improvement.

3.             Live probitics: Digestive disturbances often change the acid balance in the presence of bacteria. Many times the goat will go off of feed, because he doesn’t have bacteria to digest his food.  Follow label instructions of the product that you use.  The goat may need to be dosed several times.  If he doesn’t eat well when he is obviously no longer bloated, you need to take the following steps.

 

MAGIC: 1qt. Karo, 1 qt. Corn oil, 1 pt. Molasses give 12-15 cc by mouth with a  syringe 2 times per day until appetite returns.  This will help to keep the bacteria going until the goat starts eating again. I also give Magic to any sick goat unless I suspect it has Enterotoxaemia (over eating disease).

1.        Tetanus antitoxin: This will help in the treatment of suspected over eating disease.

2.        Make sure the goat doesn’t have access to weeds or Johnson Grass after a freeze. Or moldy feed or hay.

 

WOUNDS

Try #1, if persists 24 hrs. more try #2, etc.

1. Clorox- Make a solution of ¼ cup Clorox, and 2 gallon warm water. This kills the clostridia species bacteria that cause tetanus, and gangrene. This used for nasty wounds like dog bites.
2. Betadine solution- Mix half and half with warm water.  If one quart of the mixture is put in a spray bottle, cc. Ivomec injectable added to this will kill fly larvae.  This is to inject in deep bite or cuts where you can’t wash.  One cc of spotton (fenthion) in the same mixture will kill live maggots, and prevent re-infestation. The spotton mixture is not for deep irrigation of wounds.
3. Ivomec (cattle) injectable- to give by mouth to animals with threat of maggot infestation due to massive wounds. (1-cc/100 lbs.)
4. Penicillin- Procanine- the long acting type.  A goat is different than other animals.  If you are treating illness 10cc is the dose for an adult animals Factor the dose down for kid goats. The goat is so tough you don’t realize how sick it is until it is almost dead.  By the time this happens, drastic measures are called for.  Penicillin doesn’t have a toxic dose, and is the drug of choice for clostridia bacteria (tetanus). Be sure half of the dose is given in the muscle, and half under the skin.
5. Tylan 200:  Use a weight appropriate dose in goats that have severe injury when penicillin is not available.

 

PINK EYE:  SPECTINAMYCIN OR GARAMYCIN (GARAMYCIN IS BY PRESCRIPTION)

Give a weight appropriate dose:  These drugs come in different strengths, both work for pink eye, but Garamycin works faster.  .5cc squirted into each eye one time per day will cure beginning pink eye almost overnight.  It must be given IN CONJUNCTION with treatment.  If the eye is already opaque, the goat must be isolated form other goats until the cure is complete.  It is very important to clean the goat’s face and eye area of drainage.  Use Listerine on a paper towel for this.  Flies feed on the drainage. Continually re-infection of the goat, and spreading it to others.  Many think the goat needs a dark shed a shady area is fine.  The quicker treatment begins the less chance of spread to the other eye, and other individuals.  Sometimes the goat can be completely blind for a while if left untreated.

 

PREGNANCY TOXEMIA:  A POTENTIALLY FATAL DISEASE.

¨       Propylene Glycol-Give in one ounce doses.  The doe is in late pregnancy of twins or triplets.  Prevention is imperative.  Be sure the water is fresh and warm in cold weather.  The pregnancy produces more toxins than the kidneys can clear, causing a build up of toxins in the blood.  The intake of a high carbohydrate diet, one that contains molasses will help.  You may have to force her to get up and walk around.  If the doe become moribund (sleepy) it is time to give her a dose of propylene glycol.  You will need to monitor her until she delivers, at which time the danger is over.  I have had this rarely occur, but when it does, you will lose the doe if you don’t act quickly.  If she won’t drink or eat you may need to put a tube down her, and give 500ml of electrolytes, with an ounce of propylene glycol.  Get her up and mover her around.  Sometimes the doe is so heavy that she can hardly get up alone.  It is best if the goats not to be too fat when the last trimester of pregnancy approaches.  I usually graze them oat fields during this time, and supplement with a high quality sweet feed in the last month.  SYMPTOMS are:  The doe may act like she is in early labor, circles, paws at the ground, lies down and grunts or groans, but doesn’t do anything, and is not dented by the tail.  These are early symptoms, and can be easily treated at this time.  Usually these precede the sleepy goat, but not always.  If you don’t stay alert, you will find her dead.  If you have a sleepy goat you need to call the vet, give propylene glycol, and pray you may have to terminate the pregnancy or lose the doe.  Once you have the condition corrected you can give her some MAGIC once a day and this will help to stabilize her.  Live probiotics are always called for.

 

FOR BROKEN BONES:

 

¨       PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise (file corners off round) the pipe diameter should be larger than the bone to be splinted.

¨       Cotton (maxi-pads are perfect, and adhere to the pipe)

¨       Vet wrap

¨       Duct tape

¨       Scissors

¨       Rope

¨       Towel (to blindfold the goat)

¨       BC powder (for pain)

 

RAISING MEATPENS AND BREEDING RABBITS

 

 

FEEDING & NUTRITION

Rabbits need a well balanced diet of pellets that are a minimum of 14 to 17 percent protein, 2 to 4 percent fat, and at least 16 percent fiber for the best health of the rabbits.  The biggest problem with most new rabbit raisers is overfeeding of the rabbits.  If you’re breeding bucks and does get fat they will usually not breed or have difficulty birthing.  Do not feed your rabbit’s table scraps or fresh vegetables (treats).  This will usually upset the digestive system and cause scours.  If you notice a rabbit is not eating, a 1/4 slice of apple may be given to the rabbit.  This will usually stimulate their appetite.  Non-bred does and bucks require a very small amount of feed.  About 6 ounces is all it takes to maintain a breeding buck or doe.  This is equivalent to an empty vienna sausage can.  It is best to feed in the evening because rabbits are nocturnal by nature and the feed is less likely to spoil. 

 

CAGES & NESTBOXES

The minimum size cage to raise a meat pen of rabbits is 36" x 30".  The bottom of the cage should be made of 1/2" x 1" galvanized welded wire mesh.  The sides should be from 14" to 18" in height.  The sides and top can be made from 1" x 1" or 1" x 2" welded wire mesh.  A  3" strip of 1/2" x 1" should be fastened around the inside on the bottom of the cage if the larger size wire is used on the sides.  This prevents the babies from going through the sides and falling to the ground.   If the rabbit cages are not in an area protected from predator type animals (dogs, cats, etc.) the area beneath the cages should be fenced with some type of wire material (do not use chicken wire it is not strong enough) to keep animals from getting underneath the cages.  It is best not to have solid sides or bottoms on the cages because this will usually cause the rabbits to get hutch stain.  If the cages are outside make sure the top of the cage prevents any rain and direct sunlight from getting on the rabbits. The latches on the doors should be of a very sturdy type that cannot be opened by the rabbit hitting the doors or pushing against the door.   Make sure the door is large enough to accommodate a nest box (12"x12"). It is also recommended not to house your bucks next to the does because this will usually keep the rabbits excited.  There should be a minimum of 24" between the bucks and does cages.  During the winter it is best to enclose the north and west side with plastic all the way to the ground.  During the summer all sides should be opened to provide adequate ventilation.  The cages should be located in a shady area out of the direct sunlight that is breezy but not to close to your house or patio.  There are some odors usually associated with raising rabbits and you do not want to smell them every time you go in your backyard.   Also flies can be a problem during the summer.  Nest boxes for the does can be made from plywood, wood of steel.  The dimensions should be 11" high X 10" wide X 18" long.

The front of the nest box should be about 6 1/2" high.  The top should be 10" wide X 10" long with the sides angling from the front to the top of the nest box.  The bottom of the nest box can be either plywood or

fine hardware cloth wire mesh (1/4" X 1/4" wire not screen wire).  The wire bottom is better for the summer but cannot be used during the winter unless it is covered with wood or the nest box is placed on wood.  Make sure there are not any sharp jagged edges, protruding nails, staples or splinters that can injure the doe and the babies.   The nest box needs to be cleaned and sterilized before using.

 

FEEDERS & WATERERS

The feeders should either be heavy crocks or bowls so the rabbit cannot dump the feeder over.  Plastic is not recommended because the rabbits will chew them.  The young rabbits tend to sit in the crocks or bowls and will urinate and defecate in them, so the feeders must be cleaned out when this happens. The best feeders are the galvanized metal type that are attached to the outside of the cage and project to the inside of the cage. The type with the fine meshed screened bottom works best so the dust and fine particulates can sift out of the feed.  These type feeders need to be protected from the rain or you will have to clean out the wet feed after every rain shower.  Waterers can either be crock or water bottles.  They both need to be scrubbed once a week and fresh water should be put in them daily.  The rabbits should never be without water.  There are also automatic watering systems but is usually not recommended unless you have 7 or 8 rabbits cages to water.  The automatic waterier systems usually have to be special ordered from a rabbit supply house. 

 

SELECTION OF BREEDING STOCK

One of the most important aspects of raising rabbits is purchasing good stock from a reputable rabbit breeder.  The two breeds to select from for meat pens are New Zealand Whites and Californians.  Meat pens must be purebred and cannot be crossbred.  Crossbreed rabbits will be disqualified.  The New Zealand Whites are a rabbit breed that are solid white with pink‑reddish eyes.  Any color other than white fur or pink‑reddish eyes would be a disqualification.  The ideal adult size for New Zealand Whites is 10 pounds for bucks and 11 pounds for does.  The Californians should have white fur with only black nose, ears, tail and feet the darker the markings the better.  There should not be any black or gray on the fur or any other spots on the body of the adult rabbit.  If the rabbit does have spots or gray markings it will be disqualified for having "smut".  Some Californian rabbits are born with a smokey gray color fur.  This is not considered a disqualification unless they remain that color when they are adults. The ideal adult size for Californians is 9 pounds for bucks and 9 1/2 pounds for does.  When selecting your breeding stock the minimum age to breed a doe safely is about 6 to 7 months old.  The prime age on a doe is generally on her third litter and between 12 months and 18 months of age.  Does can be kept for 3 or more years but production usually tapers off after 3 years of age.  Bucks can start breeding at about 6 months of age but it is generally best to wait until they are 7 months old.  Younger bucks are less likely to become sterile during the hot summer months.  But when the temperature remains above 90 degrees it is common for all bucks to become sterile especially if the buck cannot get out of the direct sunlight.  A frozen 2-liter bottle filled with water can be put in a buck’s cage to help keep them cool.  It also does not hurt to have a fan blowing on the rabbits during the hottest part of the day but not at night.   Bucks are usually good for about 2 1/2 years.  After that time the bucks production usually tapers off.  Does can be rebreed when the litter is 4 weeks old.  The does usually ovulate and conceive better when they are nursing a litter.  The litter can be weaned from the does 10 days after the doe is bred.  This gives her a 20-day resting period before her next litter.  Meat pens should be left with the does until her milk has dried up or the show date which ever comes first.   When selecting does and bucks you want a rabbit with good well developed round hips and hindquarters.  The rabbit should strike a pose that rises quickly from the shoulders and carries back to the hips and rounds out to the base of the tail. The head should be uniform with body size and neat in appearance.  Always check the teeth for buck or wolf teeth.  These are disqualifications in any show rabbits and are also passed on to the offspring.  So a rabbit with buck or wolf teeth is not good for any breeding purposes.  The teeth should be uniform and come together and meet squarely.  Also check to make sure the rabbits do not have sores on the bottom of their feet this is also a disqualification at show time.  This is called sore hocks and will usually not get better over time just worse.  This is also passed on genetically and rabbits with sore hocks usually produce babies that will eventually get sore hocks.  This genetic defect can sometimes be overcome by breeding bucks that don't have sore hocks to does that do.  Also check the rabbits for any sores around the genitalia area.  This is a sign of vent disease and mating a buck or doe with this disease will contaminate you herd.  This is treatable with penicillin consult a vet.  Always check new additions to you’re breeding stock and never loan out stud bucks to help prevent this disease from entering you herd. Look down inside the ears for any scabs.

This is a sign of ear mites.  This is treatable with a mixture of Camphopheneque and mineral oil mixed 1/2 and 1/2.  Put a dropperful into each ear for 3 days straight.  Then retreat in 10-day intervals as needed.  The whole herd should be treated if one rabbit gets ear canker.  Monthly treatment of the rabbit herd with the oil mixture will usually prevent this parasite.  Also do not allow birds or chickens to congregate near your rabbits because they are hosts for the parasites.   Also look at the general appearance and health of the rabbit and what the rabbit breeders other rabbits look like.  The rabbit should look healthy and not overly fat.

Remember to take 2 large containers for feed and water.  It is best to get some feed from the breeder so you can mix it 1/2  and 1/2  with your feed for a few days.  Also do the same thing with the water.  Abrupt changes in feed and water can cause scours in the rabbits and cause the rabbits to go off feed and die.  Do not wait until the last minute to purchase your breeding rabbits.  It is best to buy the breeding rabbits at least 3 weeks before the breeding date to give them time to settle into their new home.

 

 

BREEDING YOUR DOES AND BUCKS

If you are going to show a meat pen of rabbits find the date of the show and count back 101 days.  This will give you the breeding date for that show.  Meat pens are not supposed to be over 70 days old.  The gestation period for does is from 29 to 34 days.  The average is 32 days.  Always take the does to the buck’s cage and never leave them unattended for a long period of time.  Does will sometimes castrate a buck if she is left in the cage for a long period of time.  When you put the doe in the cage watch to see how they react to each other.  The buck may mount the doe on the wrong end or side, don't be alarmed he will usually come around to the right end after a few tries.  Watch them at all times. The mating act should be accomplished in less than 5 minutes.  Do not leave the does in the buck's cage for longer than 5 minutes.  If she has not bred in that length of time she usually is not in heat at that time.  You will usually notice if the does are going to take the buck because she will usually raise her back end so the buck can serve her.  If the doe "takes" the buck, you will obviously be able to tell.  The buck will fall off to one side of the doe he will usually stomp his feet and may also squeal.  When this happens remove the doe and place her back in her cage.  If he just stays on her back and never falls off to the side she did not breed.  If this happens put her back in her cage and try to rebreed her in about 6 hours and again in 12 hours.  Sometimes the does will come into heat after they have been in the buck's cage.  If the doe breeds try to rebreed her in 24 hours.  If she fights the buck or runs around the cage she is usually bred and remove her.  If she takes the buck again, then she probably did not stick.  Try rebreeding her again in another 24 hours if she continues to rebreed try again the next day.  Do not try to breed more than 4 days in a row.  Some does will continue to ovulate and conceive and this will cause birthing problems.   When the doe first takes the buck count 28 days and mark the calendar.  This is the day the nest box needs to be put in the doe’s cage.  Don't be alarmed if she has not had the babies in 30 days from the last time she was bred.  Some does will go over by as much as 5 days.  Usually after 35 days the chances are the doe did not breed or she will probably die trying to have them, hopefully this will not happen.

 

 

Steer or Breeding Beef Suggested Facilities

We encourage our students to utilize all facilities that they have, but if new facilities must be built we recommend the following:

16’ X 32’ pen

10’ X 16’ shed

2’ X 3’ feed box with a mineral box on one end

Adequate water container to hold 25 gallons of water.

 

          Locate pen so that it will drain correctly, and the calf will have a dry place to lie down. Then pen should also be located in such a manner that the shed will block the north wind. It may be necessary in some situations to fill dirt or sand into raise the level of the pen so that proper drainage will occur. We have found that 16’ X 52’’ stock panels make excellent construction materials for pens. Corrugated sheet metal can be used to make a good water tight shed.

            Estimated cost of pen if new materials are used is $250-$300. Breeding cattle projects can be raised in the same type pen, but pastures should be provided for grazing and exercise.

 

Cost of animal------------$475-$800.00 +

            Clipper Blades------------$50.00

Feed cost----------------$500.00

            Vet. Expenses------------$75.00

            Misc. expenses-----------$100.00

     Total---------$1000.00-$1475.00 +

 

¨       *** It is necessary that you purchase your own set of clipper blades to be used to groom your calf. Ringworm and many other problems can be eliminated if you keep your own personal set of clipper blades ready for use: sterilized and sharp. The Advisors have clipper motors you may check out from the department.

¨       Estimated cost of raising a good pasture bred steer. The initial cost of the steer/heifer/bull depends on your preference.

¨       Feed 2-3 lbs./body wt. Full growers to full finisher with corn possibly added for finish. (English breed calves finish quicker so you can go longer on grower and add finisher 45-90 days before show depending on look of calf. Exotic cross steers must begin finisher (corn, barley, etc.) earlier to finish out.

¨       ½ pkg. Yeast every 3-4 days added to feed for digestion or probias is bests a paste to add microbes in rumen.

¨       Hay.

¨       Fresh water

¨       Worm every 45-60 days.

¨       Bathing and/or watering down as much as possible every day is great for hair growth.

 

SHOW SUPPLIES CHECK LIST

FOR LONG HAIRED CATTLE

 

¨       REGISTRATION & OR HEALTH PAPERS

¨       WATER BUCKET   * Never share buckets!!!!!    With  ANYONE.

¨       FEED BUCKET

¨      FEED & HAY

 

SHOW BOX

¨      Show halter

¨      Blue stall halter

¨      Blue neck rope

¨      Show stick

¨      Scissors

¨      Comb and brush

¨      Short water hose with nozzle

¨      Hay bag

¨      Towels or rags

¨      Number & or comb holder

¨      Shoe strings to match tail or electrical ties

¨      Tail adhesive

¨      Show sheen or clean sheen-for body

¨      Final bloom-for body

¨      Zoom bloom-for body

¨      Prime time or easy comp-for legs and body

¨      WD-40 or Hocus Pocus-to clean out

¨      Go-Joe hand cleaner-to deep clean adhesive out of legs

¨      Dawn or Joy soap-to wash calf

¨      Vinegar/water bottle 50-50 to-rinse calf